2012 School Year Week 1

Teachers and staff came back on Monday, but naturally I was one of the first people at the Primary School.  I made sure the new fingerprint hardware was working so we could all sign in with our prints instead of waiting so long for our turn at a book, eliminating problems caused by sneaky teachers and getting them into the classroom sooner.  So far it's been working okay, I had to re-register 1 or 2 people and show a couple others how not to break the scanning screen, but it's not been as bad a transition as I feared.  I was doing lots of little things in the office and waiting for a staff meeting so I could go over my Classroom Management notes again, but those happen in the afternoon and I'm usually at the Middle School by then.  I tried talking to a couple of the educators about co-teaching with them this year, since I hardly did any of that last year, but they wanted me to completely take over their classes.  I played the money card, “No way, you're getting paid to be in class, I'm just volunteering to help” and got out of that quick. 

I'd been telling the Principal, David, that I wouldn't be doing all the computer software stuff again this year.  Last year my life was dominated by SA-SAMS, the software the DoE requires schools to use but doesn't offer much support or training for.  I entered all of the assignments and grades for all 870+ students for the last 2 terms of the year.  I refuse to do it again this year for 2 reasons: first, I'm not being utilized as a Resource Specialist and not in the classrooms where I want to be, and second, if I continue then they would never find someone else to do the work and when I leave the school would be up a creek.  So I've said I'll help train a new Administrative Assistant and the teachers on how to enter their own grades, but that's all.  By Thursday we had a new Admin Assistant.

Learners came back to school on Wednesday, and it's been mass chaos pretty much ever since.  The educators surprised me with their enthusiasm to be back at work, but no one seemed to have any lesson plans prepared or even knew what subjects they'd be teaching this year.  Plus we spent until Friday afternoon finalizing the schedule of classes, so teachers either went to random classes at random times of the day, or not at all.  What a great start to the new year, huh?  Friday an educator/assistant manager of the school asked me where she could put me in the schedule, what classes could I teach (because surely I could take over some of hers, right?) and I said I'd love to co-teach with her, but she always had to be in the room with me.  She agreed, checked the schedule and saw that her first class of the day is supposed to end in 10 minutes, so we'd better go introduce ourselves.  That class happens to be Lebo's and he seemed excited when I walked in.  Teacher says “Hello students, I'm Mrs. B and this is Gina and we will be teaching you maths this year.  Sometimes it will be me and sometimes it will be Gina.  Gina, just say a few words.”  I started to tell her and the class I prefer my African name, Itumeleng, or Tumi (like tomb-ee) for short, but she walked out and left me hanging.  So I asked the kids a few questions about what they remembered from last year and called out multiplication table questions until the class ended.  I tried to explain the concept of co-teaching to Mrs. B but she looked at me blankly and then ran off to do something else.  It's already frustrating. 

The Middle School also didn't have a schedule, so the first period of the day every teacher took a class and tried to assign them enough busywork to keep them quiet all day.  Of course that didn't happen, the learners took to running around the yard with the Principal chasing them with her whip when they got too loud.  I hate that whip, but I haven't actually seen her strike a kid with it and I know she uses it to break up the knife fights at school, so I don't say too much.  Anyway, that's how the first week of school went, and the first 3 out of 50 teaching days this term were wasted.

Getting home was an adventure

On the bus from our Teacher Retreat back home, Mpho and I bet whether or not we'd stop in Vryburg so the teachers could do more shopping.  I said we would.  In fact, we only stopped at the filling station (gas station) and only 2 teachers went in to buy pop.  Back over the bumpy dirt roads towards my village.
We'd just turned into Pan and were slowly starting to make our way to the school when we stopped in a mud hole.  I assumed we'd gotten stuck, then the engine died.  We'd run out of diesel fuel.  The driver called someone and told us it'd be 20 minutes for his boss to bring fuel.  Yeah, right, it was at least a 40 minute drive to the nearest filling station.  So Mpho and I decided to walk to my house and I called my mom to make sure he could spend the night. 
Most teachers have started walking, a few in front of us get into someones car, but we set out across the village.  It's a huge village, really spread out, and I'm not really familiar with this side.  We follow one teacher, and Mpho is very kind to carry her bag to her house.  He laughed at me when I tried to subtlety make sure I was on the right road to my house.  We passed a soccer field where we saw several learners from school, and only stopped to talk for a minute or two.  We kept walking and made it home after about 40 minutes.  I may have missed a short cut, but we didn't get lost and I was pretty proud of myself.
No one was home, so we cooked dinner.  I was a little embarrassed that I didn't have bread, I hadn't been making sandwiches for lunch since I haven't been going to school.  We ate some of my Christmas presents from my mom, biscuits and gravy. :)
Mom came home and we visited a while.  Mpho impressed her by killing lots of flies just by clapping over them.  We left her to fix her own dinner and we watched several episodes of 30 Rock before bed.
The next morning, Sunday, I woke up early and did lots in my room to get organized and ready for a new school year.  I'm mentally preparing myself for long stressful days, miscommunications and stubbornness. Mpho and I talked about our schools, gave each other ideas about teaching specific subjects and relating to teachers and learners.  Late in the morning I walked him to my village's official catch-a-ride spot (I knew exactly where we were going) and we waited for a passing taxi or bakkie.  Most people were at church, we could hear singing from all around us, from the multitude of churches in the Pan.  A woman walked by and talked to us for 10 or 15 minutes in Setswana, even after we'd made it clear we didn't understand much of what she was saying.  She started and ended the conversation with a request for 5 Rand from us.  I said I didn't have any money and he just straight-American-talk said "No."  She looked at us funny but finally moved away. 
We waited maybe 30 minutes for a bakkie that had space for Mpho, but he got to be the only passenger in the front seat as they left my village.  Back at the house, mom went to church, and since the boys are all visiting family in Delarey, I had the place to myself.  I took a nap and watched some more 30 Rock.  Yep, I'm prepared for this new school year. 

Preparing for the new school year: Retreat with Teachers

I had one day to recover from the kids, and then I got to go off with the educators of the Primary School for a beginning-of-the-year motivational retreat/professional development.  Again, I was not called to the school the day before to prepare, but this time I was told that I'd *only* be doing a session on Classroom Management.  So I stayed home Thursday and really confused Lebo with this amazing program called PowerPoint.
The transport was supposed to pick us up at school at 7am.  I met about half our teachers at school, the other half was just doing lip service when they said they'd attend this workshop.  The women all surprised me with Happy New Year kisses on the mouth, another example of culture shock.  And we waited. and waited.  After the kids' retreat, I wasn't going to wait past 9:30, I think 2 and a half hours is more than fair.  The bus finally arrived at 9:15.  Mpho and about half his teachers were already on the bus, our school's are BFFs and do a lot of activities together. 
This adult retreat was in a resort close to Vryburg, but of course we had to stop in town.  The excuse was hunger, we could all quickly get something to eat.  It turned into a big shopping trip, with teachers splitting off, going to a Clicks (like Walgreens), grocery stores, liquor stores, etc.  I went with a couple of my teachers to KFC.
Until this point, I'd avoided KFC, I don't really like it in Kentucky and didn't think I'd like it here.  The food wasn't great, but South Africans seem to LOVE it.  And I have to say, KFC is THE MOST EFFICIENT THING IN SOUTH AFRICA!! I'd ordered and had my food in less than 3 minutes, that's good timing in America too, and for South Africa it's unbelievable.  Maybe that's why everyone eats KFC, they want to be amazed at how fast their food is ready. 
So we get back on the bus and wait for everyone else.  We finally get to the resort at NOON and jump straight into sessions.
The main speaker, a guy I'll call Morutibana (Preacher, I think he actually was one) started out pretty mean.  He asked everyone what they did over vacation and then challenged it.  He was playing Devil's Advocate, and asked one woman about her illness and treatment until she just gave up and said she got better because she "prayed really hard" (as opposed to soft prayer), not the fact that she also followed the doctor's treatment plan.  Mpho told about his Drakensburg trip, mostly in Setswana, and impressed everyone in the room.  Thanks a lot, at least 3 teachers told me that they would stop speaking to me in English until my Setswana improved.  At one point Morutibana tried to get me to comment on if one other woman's religious belief was correct or not, and I pulled the race card "Oh, you don't want to start a religious debate between Americans and South Africans."  "Christianity" here is weird, a little corrupted with ancestor worship and traditional beliefs.  Jesus is my best friend but I don't feel like I have anything in common with some of the most devout Christians here.  In a room full of South Africans, that's one can of worms I'd rather leave closed.
So Morutibana lost me after that.  I know he transitioned into subjects that related to teaching, he read from a book about how black South Africans can get their pride and respect back through higher education.  At tea, Mpho's Principal asked me how it was going and I used my straight American talk to tell him what I thought, "the beginning was a little hard to swallow, but it's getting better."
After tea, I asked David if I could skip out on the last session of the day, these curriculum related matters weren't so important to me and my role in the school this year.  So I got in the pool instead.  Mpho came and sat on a chair, he made sure to warn me about parasites and pointed out the tadpoles in the corner of the pool, but by that point I didn't care.  We talked about what we're planning to do this school year and he gave me some pointers on my forward crawl (freestyle) technique.  :)
I was out of the pool and showered just in time for dinner. The teachers all saw me and several asked, "You were swimming? You like to take care of yourself, no?" I laughed and said yes.  I'll let them believe I was exercising instead of just lazing in 1.2 meters of water talking. 
I shared a room with a teacher named (I kid you not) Pinky.  I've been holding myself back all year to ask her if she knows a Brain.  Women here aren't modest, and she stripped naked in the room before going into the bathroom for a bath.  We were both really tired and went to bed really early. 
The next morning, she blasts the TV (everything here is loud! TV's, radios, the older people get the louder they talk) as she irons the same clothes she was wearing yesterday.  After breakfast a guy from our school's Area Office gives a talk about curriculum, then tea, then it's my turn.  I have made a short PowerPoint presentation about Classroom Management tips and techniques, and I expected to go through it quickly.  However, as so few teachers have heard of or practice effective classroom management, I ended up talking and answering questions for over an hour.  I was pleased that so many teachers seemed interested and were willing to move away from corporeal punishment and towards a fair and consistent discipline plan.  We'll see how the new school year goes.
After lunch, Morutibana comes back in and gives a long inspirational talk.  I'm pleased that I'm not the only one preaching positive things, he's also talking about how these kids are the future and teachers should respect them and give them the tools and attitude for a successful life. But he talks too much, loves the sound of his own voice.  At about 3pm (we were supposed to be done at noon) we stand up for some singing, dancing and praying.  We finish out the meeting holding hands in a big circle and listening to Morutibana praying for like 20 minutes.  Finally, we can go outside and get ready to head home.
Not so fast! Outside, we have to pose for pictures, and most teachers want a picture with the white people, Mpho and I posed with one after another.  Then a few people had to get a picture in front of the pretty flowers before we could go.  Most people here don't know how to use a digital camera or are able to share or print pictures, I still don't know why my teachers think this was important to spend our time on. 
We loaded the bus at 4.  By 4:35, the last of the teachers had gotten settled, closed all the windows, avoided the sun like they are vampires, and off we go!!

Preparing for the new school year: Retreat with Students

On Monday I was supposed to go to school to help prepare for the Learner’s Retreat, an overnight trip Tuesday to a local Holiday Resort for the 12-15 best learners in each of 3 local Primary schools.  However, David never called me and I had no idea what to expect for the next 2 days.   Luckily my little brother, Lebo, was invited to attend, so from his letter I knew we had to be at school at 6:30am. 

Tuesday morning Lebo oversleeps and rushes to pack while I have coffee in the house with host mom.  A friend of Lebo’s, Oratile, comes by at 6am with his granny.  She demands to know why Oratile wasn’t invited to this outing and expects me to call David to get permission for him to come too.  I calmly explained that it was only the top 4 learners from each grade who were chosen to go, and unfortunately Oratile didn’t make the cut.  She was upset that I wouldn’t call David, but I didn’t care.  No one had any airtime (calling minutes) loaded on their phones, so we didn’t disturb the Principal. 

Lebo and I made it to school at half past 6, and sat and waited for the bus.  And waited. And waited.  A woman from the School’s Governing Board, SGB, wonders over and sits near me.  We continue to wait, I know things are always slow and running late, but by 9am I’m furious.  I’m saying goodbye to Lebo and picking up my bag to go home when the bus rounds the corner.  No explanation, no apology, nothing.  We drive to the resort, about an hour away, and see that Mpho’s school has brought a few learners too.  There are three schools total, and we’re waiting on the third to arrive.  So the kids go play and Mpho and I talk with some ladies from our schools.  Finally, the third school and the Principals all arrive, by now it’s NOON. 

The Principals tell Mpho and I that we’re supposed to be leading this Leadership Retreat, and don’t we have a program made up?  Of course we don’t, and we get some hateful looks when we refuse to sit down and actually write out a program of events for the retreat.  Mpho gave a great explanation about Leadership and types of leadership and encouraged the kids to prove themselves as leaders in school, academics and sports.  We had to have the ladies translate everything because these leaders have poor English skills.   Also, at least one kid couldn't write his name and 2 had never used a flush toilet before. 

During lunch we discussed the agenda, brainstormed some games we could play with the kids, and resigned ourselves to being in charge of everything.  After lunch, we had to run the kids out of the pool (petty sure that’s the only reason some agreed to come to this) and I lead a couple of games while Mpho went with his Principal to Vryburg for balls, Frisbees and sweets for the kids.  At the official pool time, the boys all loved playing with Mpho, he’d throw them around and let them cling to his back while he swam under water.  We tried to explain the basics of blowing out of your nose to keep water from going up it but I think it was a little advanced. 

After dinner we’d planned to show a movie and send the kids off to bed, but the power was off so it was all hands on deck trying to organize the sleeping arrangements.  The adults are doubled up in rooms with 2 twin beds; the kids will all be given foam mattresses to sleep in the conference room we’ve been using.  Somewhere it was decided that the girls and the boys should not sleep together so all the girls would be divided up to sleep on the adult’s rooms floors.  That put 7 extra girls in each room.  I didn’t really mind it, I approve of the splitting of the genders, but if they’d have put the boys in the men’s rooms it would have only been 5 extra kids each.  No one appreciated my math.

Trying to get mattresses and everything organized took forever, as everything in this country does.  I waited until my room was full before I went in.  I may have been the worst camp counsellor because all I said was “Everybody brushed their teeth? Okay, goodnight” and laid down.  When the lights came on almost 2 hours later and the girls turned the TV on I made them turn it off again and go to sleep. 

My adult roommate was outside and came in to bed at midnight.  She woke us all up at 5:30am to get ready for the day.  The girls left to return their mattresses and shower in the camping area, and I had my own nice hot shower in the room.  With plenty of time before breakfast the kids played outside.  My adult roommate was upset that we had to wait so long for breakfast and the kids were being so loud.  I asked her "What did you expect? You woke us all up this early, it's your own fault."  South Africans generally don't appreciate this "straight American talk" and she was no exception.

After breakfast Mpho's Principal addressed the kids, encouraging them to work hard, study diligently and be good leaders.  We played one or two more games, then released everyone to the pool.  After lunch we all boarded the bus and waited (of course) before we could go home.  The driver had a sense of humor and indulged the kids by hitting a few potholes, we were completely airborne once, but we all got home safely.  Overall it was a fun time and great to see the learners becoming so empowered.  I'm sure we'll all have a great year at school!

The good and the bad: Vryburg

I’d been home less than 2 weeks, and I already needed a break.  So I decided to meet a few other PCVs in Vryburg on Friday, the 6th.  I made arrangements with a lady who I know from the Department of Education and who runs a B&B to stay the night and caught a bakkie to town.  It’s always a hassle to get out of my village, but I’d made arrangement for the bakkie driver to pick me up from my house.  He was *only* 45 minutes late. 

I’d been on vacation with 2 of the PCVs, and the 2 guys (my adopted dad Tshiamo and Mpho) had gone to the Drakensburg Mountains with another group, so we got to share stories.  Any time I’m walking around a city with paved sidewalks under foot and Americans at my side I feel like I’m on vacation again. 

In Vryburg I bought envelopes and mailed home some Christmas presents I’d bought on vacation, fingers crossed that both parcels arrive.  After my two awesome packages I can’t wait to hear what my friends and family think of their presents. I got a few random supplies I needed, like mixing bowls, and splurged on Nutella.  The girls went home early and the 2 guys walked me to my B&B.  Apparently I suck at reading map keys; we walked too far and had to double back.  But the place was gorgeous, beautiful grounds, a swimming pool and my own double bed and bathroom.  I bought some snacks for dinner and (after a gossip session) the guys left so I could settle in for the night.

My DoE contact and host came by to check on me, when I inquired about wireless internet to update my kindle she offered to drive me to her brother’s house to use his.  So I got to update my kindle, see the inside of an Afrikaner’s house and play with a little baby boy that evening.  Back at the B&B, I watched The American President, one of my all time favorite movies.  A hot shower and a comfortable bed were just what the doctor ordered. 

The next morning, I bought a few groceries and was at the taxi rank before 10am, ready to head back to my village, Pan.  At my bakkie, the driver let me put my stuff in the front seat so I could go buy a drink.  I stopped in a home goods store and got a pillow, so I walked back into the taxi rank with huge lightweight bag in one hand and a cool drink (pop or soda) in the other. 

I suddenly felt someone come up behind me and goose me, pinching/tickling my sides.  My first reaction is “this is someone I know” after all, who else would do something like that? But I turn and it’s a complete stranger, some youngish guy goofing off and telling me how much he loves me.  I told him to leave me alone, he said he wouldn’t, and came after me again.  I never stopped walking or screaming for him to leave me alone, shoved him back several times, and was ready to call for the police when a gogo (granny) stepped between us.  She started scolding him and gave me enough time to get safely back to my bakkie and the men there who take care of me.  They got me a seat in the shade and kept me company until we left town. 

I got to ride in the shotgun window seat, and I purposefully kept the window a little bit opened the entire ride.  (Everyone here hates the “strong wind” from open windows so even if it’s 100 degrees Fahrenheit they have no air conditioning and no open windows.)  I’m always the last one dropped off and my apples always get a little crushed in the bakkie.  Oh well, at least it’s only about an hour trip, some PCV’s are in taxis for 3 or 4 to get to town. 

Belated Christmas Presents

I’d been procrastinating a trip to the post office to see if I had any Christmas mail, but I’d finally decided to go when my Principal, David, calls and says we need to meet at school for work.  I negotiate some work time for a trip to the post office, and off we went!  I actually accomplished very little at school, just enough to know that we’ll be hosting a camp for 12-15 outstanding students next week, and that it would be nice if I’d prepare some games for them.  We rush to the post office before it closes and wait in line for me to find 3 packages!!  I have to pay a small customs fee, buy some extra stamps, and proudly carry out the physical proof that people love me. 

At home, Lebo helps me carry in the packages, and to him this means he deserves a treat from inside them. I open the box first, I know it’s full of books my sister sent.  Also included were two small wrapped packages of Christmas presents for Lebo and Resego.  They got a kick out of unwrapping presents (that doesn’t happen in the villages) and discovered new toys.  They each had a bag of McDonald’s Happy Meal toys and random little plastic dinosaurs or lizards that my niece wanted to send them.  They were very grateful and immediately started to play and plan how to scare their granny with the lizards.  I shooed them out so I could open my presents in private.

My mom sent 2 envelopes and divided stuff between them very well.  I got sunflower seeds (I’m addicted), chocolate pudding powder, cards, head bands, pancake mix, biscuit and gravy mix, random things she’s gotten while couponing, a new Nalgene that glows in the dark and was stuffed full of pixie sticks.  Awesomeness in 2 envelopes.  Thanks, Mom, I love you!!

The box of books was also my nieces, stuff she’s outgrown but my school here desperately needs.  There are a few little toys here and there too, mostly soccer related that I’ll have to hide from Lebo or he’ll just walk out of my room with them and not think twice.  I am letting him borrow one book at a time until I take them all to school; the first thing he chose was an Activity Book.  So thanks, sister and niece!!

Lebo's 10th Birthday

My brother (nephew really, but he lives here full time and family relationships aren't well defined) Lebo turned 10 years old today.  He's been talking about it all week, so excited to have a cake and presents.  Just like any other kid, right? 

I'd told him that I had him a birthday present, and yesterday he saw me on my computer highlighting kids movies, I said he could watch one today as part of his present.  This morning he was gone to the tuck shop when I got up.  I passed mom and said something offhand, like “is Lebo having a friend over for his Birthday?” and she started this weird embarrassed-laughter.  She explained that she's forgotten his birthday was today.  She's his grandmother, and he's been living with her for like 4 years now.  Maybe Birthday's aren't as important here, but he's sure been making a big deal about it.

Several minutes later, mom must have been feeling bad (or noticed my shocked face) because she came to my room and justified herself.  She was tired from the Holidays still, it was so hot (about 101 degrees F today), she forgot to change the calendar.  She called Lebo's parents and found out that they'd bought him new school clothes for this year, she says they'll be his birthday present.  But it's too hot to bake a cake. 

Lebo comes back, bursts into my room and demands his birthday present.  I feel pretty bad for the kid so I ask if he wants to go get a friend to watch a movie with him.  He returns quickly with Thato, Resego wonders in, and they all start A Bug's Life.  At some point Thato wanders out and Lebo doesn't seem to mind.  Resego sees the 3 little matchbox cars I had tucked behind the computer and starts to play.  I explained that those were also Lebo's birthday present.  But Resego is still a crybaby and wailed every time Lebo or I tried to take them from him.  I was all for pushing through but Lebo said to forget it, he'd play with them later.  After the movie and a little conversation I had to push the boys out of the room so I could have lunch. 

Lebo tells me that his uncle Kenny is bringing him a cake from Delarey and he's very excited about it.  He then asked about those blue balloons.  I'm stumped.  I finally get him to explain that he saw my stash of balloon animal balloons and pump, but he doesn't know what it's for and says I told him I'd show him on his birthday.  I don't remember the last part, but I wasn't about to rummage through all my belongings to get to the balloons only to have him and Resego begging me for the rest of my stay for more.  Or telling their friends about it and them asking me at school.  That happened with the new ink pens, friendship bracelets and coloring books that my sister sent me and I don't want to repeat history. 

A little while later Lebo comes in to show me his birthday present, his new school clothes.  He's got new pants, shorts, shoes, three shirts and a jacket.  And three little metal cars from me.  Happy Birthday, Lebo!  He was disappointed that Kenny didn't bring him a cake, didn't know why and hadn't asked.   No one even sang Happy Birthday.

My first South African Birthday was great!  I got banana bread, homemade cakes from my crazy host-mom at the time, a card and lots of well wishes.  I had a movie party and a generally great time with people I'd barely known for a month.  This kid's own family forgot his 10^th Birthday.  I am so humbled today.